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6 Comments

  1. Florian
    February 8, 2024 @ 8:34 am

    Thank you, Guillaume.
    I’m working on incorporating some of Saul Leiter’s stylistic choices and techniques in my own work. Your article really emphasized some important aspects. It also made me want to get an old, long lens 🙂 – Too bad shooting with focus peaking isn’t that much fun with the X-T5 since the outlines don’t go away when you half-press the shutter. I might get an X-T1 or 2 just for manual shooting purposes.

    Reply

    • Guillaume
      February 8, 2024 @ 8:48 am

      Hey, and thanks!
      I didn’t know the X-T5 still shows the outline when you half-press the shutter. In fact, I would have liked that ahaha, but I guess everyone has their preferences.
      You could easily find a Canon FD lens, or a M42 longer lens like the Takumar 135mm, which is a very nice addition to a kit!

      Reply

  2. Normand
    March 1, 2024 @ 11:37 am

    Hi Guillaume
    Thanks for the article.
    I Currently have a X-T5, X-T2 and still have a Minolta X700 working very well with many lenses and an MD-FX adapter.
    I’ll certainly try to find some good mixes (camera/lens) and maybe there the result sometimes

    Reply

  3. obert
    November 23, 2024 @ 11:26 am

    Hello Guillaume,

    I really like the way you edited these images. I am learning so is there a way you could expand on that? You mention not using the film simulations from your other article anymore, but you still take Classic Chrome as your basis. What other parameters do you tweak to get the results you get?

    Thank you for you time and beautiful photos,
    obert

    Reply

    • Guillaume Rabuel
      November 23, 2024 @ 3:53 pm

      Hello there Obert!
      Thanks for your comment. And sure, I can tell you more!
      My editing style has changed a lot over the years, and yes, when I’ve done this project I stopped using simulations, but I kept the Classic Chrome base. Either you shoot with it, or you can add it in post, whether it’s in Lightroom or Capture One. I shoot raw, and I use Capture One.

      First I start by adjusting the exposure, bringing the overall up a bit, and then using a curve. I don’t know how to describe the shape of the curve, but I only bring up the midtones, and keep the shadows down, and highlights down as well. I reduce the contrast as well.

      Then, I work on the colors, and it’s the most important part I’d say. I bring the general saturation down, and tweak each color individually. Yellows and red are fundamental. Yellows are saturated, and reds too, plus tend to go towards orange. I usually bring the luminance down too, to make them deeper.
      I then use the color grading tool to add green/cyan to the shadows, and yellow/orange to the highlights.
      I then end by lifting the shadows and the black point, to get a closer-to-film kind of shadows.

      I then add clarity and structure, but just a tiny bit (it’s like +3 or 4), and grain.

      I think that’s all!

      Reply

  4. Hanoch
    March 12, 2025 @ 6:54 am

    Hi Florian;
    There is a way,
    See “How to Fix Fujifilm Focus Peaking “Annoyance”” by PAL2TECH

    Reply

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